Thursday, June 18, 2009

A day of leisure in the Sacred Valley

We spent our fourth night in the Sacred Valley. We woke to a morning of leisure. After packing and eating breakfast we bid a sorrowful farewell to Yucay and our friend Irwin Ramos. The hotel in Yucay truly was a beautiful place of solace. We will remember the big wood doors, ancient iron slide latch locks with dungeon master-like keys, hydrangea flowers through all the courtyards, colonial looking chapel just outside our room, oasis looking trees, roaming llamas, mountain vistas backed by glacier covered peaks, and empty jacuzzi.
We stuffed the bags in a small taxi and began our meandering trip back to Cusco. Once off the main road we climbed and climbed through the altiplano scenery. Donkeys, cows, sheep, pigs, dirt roads, cool dry air, and the occasional native working the field, driving livestock, or packing something on their back the size of a volkswagon.
Our first stop was the Salinas salt pans. Here a natural spring heavy laden with salt comes out the side of the mountain and is diverted into more than 3,000 pools clinging to the mountainside where it then dries and is harvested. The site has been using the same method since Inca times. We walked the pools, touched the water, and watched the workers busy with their tasks.

Next stop was Moray. This is a natural amphitheater-looking site that was used to cultivate different foods. The terraces drop far enough that they fall into different micro-climates, hence archeologists believe it was useful for a kind of primitive Inca agri-research site. It also is supposedly a kind of high altitude natural greenhouse because of the protected nature of the dip in the valley. Looks kind of like a mini version of Kennecott copper mine.
Third stop was Chinchero (pronounced exactly how it looks). This was probably the most authentic Andean looking place we've been. No tourists in this city. The locals were as surprised and interested in seeing us as we them. While turning one corner we saw a sage looking brown wrinkled man driving his donkeys in a circle on a pile of some kind of grain. With the windows open, kim yelled out "buenas dias" at which point the man looked up, removed a hand from the ropes, waved, and yelled back "buenas dias". The Chinchero archeological site was quite remarkable. The colonial church had paintings all on the walls and ceilings and was built on the foundation of an ancient Inca temple. Outside we saw a vast expanse of terraces and enormous rock walls. According to Inca legend this is where the "rainbow" was born.
Back in Cusco:
Check-in proved to be something of a challenge. We couldn't even drive to the hotel. The pre-celebrations of next week's festival of the sun had the roads closed. Thousands of people. Music, bands, processions, on-lookers, etc.Kim and my room is overlooking the main square and the music is still going strong as I write this.We went to a museum and saw Inca relics, and examples of how the Spaniards tried to teach and indoctrinate the natives. Paintings used to teach bible stories, then later paintings by locals with more of a local flare in style, content and color.We also went to a center for native arts and watched traditional dancing, clothing, and music. While I'm not normally interested in this, it was actually pretty neat.Dinner: you know eventually someone had to break down and go local. Gordon had "Cui" (coo-eee)-or- guinea pig, and Kim had Alpaca. Yes, we all tried it and it was definitely not bad. The biggest leap is getting past the sight of the little cooked guinea pig lying on the plate with short little legs stretched out as if he's trying to use them to run away from his final demise - the dinner plate. Cui is widely eaten here. The Alpaca was like mild tender steak. Very good. Also widely eaten here.We walked the streets and were treated to a vibrant night life, especially during this festival time.Much to my pleasure we saw the famous Inca Twelve sided stone. This rock lays in a wall of a church along an ally not far from the center of town. In keeping with Spanish modus operandi the church was built on an Inca site. This huge rock is a remarkable example of artistry with just as interesting of a story behind it (lore maybe?) of representing the twelve Inca kings...etc. We are all in good spirits. Sat in an internet cafe and had ice cream. We are all three sad to retire tonight prior to our final morning in the heart of ancient civilization. 3:20 flight from Cusco to Lima. Then midnight departure from Lima to L.A.
We desperately hope Kim's bag is in Lima waiting for us.As this may be the last update...Adiós from Peru

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