Back in the USA

Kim & I just parted ways with Gordon. He headed to the American security gates and we to the Delta.Gordon has been an easy travel partner and an especially big help when we had more bags than hands. He has been a real trooper with us dragging him around places not to mention up peaks that don't appear to be climbable.
We are currently scheduled on an earlier flight than was in our itinerary. The flight is overbooked and we hope to get bumped and pick up some tickets.
Very smooth and uneventful flight from Lima to LA. Kim slept most of the time and I slept some as well. LA is overcast and humid this morning. After claiming our luggage and proceeding through immigration and customs, Kim excused herself into a bathroom stall to change into a new set of garments and clean clothes!

What a great experience. Both Kim and Gordon said I need to write an epilogue now the trip is over but sitting here now I'm at a loss. I guess that's the reason I felt compelled to give a daily journal... so I wouldn't have to remember days back.The sights, sounds, smells, and tastes of Peru are, like all places, unique.Overall the country impresses me to be full of good humble hard working people.I'm just excited that my dad was finally able to visit a place that I know he's wanted to visit for so long.

Gordon and Kim waiting to board our midnight flight to LAX.

It's difficult to point out the "highlight" because at every turn in the trip we were able to experience something special. Spanish classes are in order.
Random thought about trip to Peru: Coke made with sugar - more yummy than high fructose corn syrup...

We got Kim's bag!

We have Kim's bag...finally! We arrived in Lima and were greeted by Lima Tours representatives who escorted us to LAN Airlines offices where I successfully strong armed my way behind the counter to claim Kim's bag. After a small scene and showing my passport I was out the door with the bag! Hopefully we don't lose it on the leg home to Salt Lake City now!!

Festival of the Sun

This morning we were awakened by the music, drums, and fireworks of Plaza de Armas in continuation of the festival of the sun. We went to two museums - the museum of contemporary art, and the Cathedral de la Merced which is a running catholic convent with 22 nuns. It's also a catholic school in which the nuns teach. Walking the streets we couldn't help but find ourselves in the middle of a large procession. 15 patron saints are represented by 15 local communities and they parade around with these huge, heavy platforms (upon which is some kind of statue of the saint) proceeded by dancers and followed by a band. All the bands sound the same. We had a leisurely lunch - pizza and pasta.We returned again to see the 12 sided stone in the daylight. Very cool. Carlos from Lima Tours picked us up at the hotel and we are now at the Cusco airport waiting to board our flight. We'll be in Lima this afternoon for dinner then we reboard a flight to LAX at midnight.




This morning we were awakened by the music, drums, and fireworks of Plaza de Armas in continuation of the festival of the sun. We went to two museums - the museum of contemporary art, and the Cathedral de la Merced which is a running catholic convent with 22 nuns. It's also a catholic school in which the nuns teach. Walking the streets we couldn't help but fund ourselves in the middle of a large procession. 15 patron saints are represented by 15 local communities and they parade around with these huge, heavy platforms (upon which is some kind of statue of the saint) proceeded by dancers and followed by a band. All the bands sound the same. We had a leisurely lunch - pizza and pasta.We returned again to see the 12 sided stone in the daylight. Very cool. Carlos from Lima Tours picked us up at the hotel and we are now at the Cusco airport waiting to board our flight. We'll be in Lima this afternoon for dinner.

Busy day of festival preparation in Cusco

Picture from our hotel room in Cusco. Huge celebration going on right now to culminate on the 26th. Inti Raymi - or Festival of the Sun. To celebrate Inca Winter Solstice. There are thousands here from all of Peru. A lot of music and dancing and traditionary clothing. Parades.

A day of leisure in the Sacred Valley

We spent our fourth night in the Sacred Valley. We woke to a morning of leisure. After packing and eating breakfast we bid a sorrowful farewell to Yucay and our friend Irwin Ramos. The hotel in Yucay truly was a beautiful place of solace. We will remember the big wood doors, ancient iron slide latch locks with dungeon master-like keys, hydrangea flowers through all the courtyards, colonial looking chapel just outside our room, oasis looking trees, roaming llamas, mountain vistas backed by glacier covered peaks, and empty jacuzzi.
We stuffed the bags in a small taxi and began our meandering trip back to Cusco. Once off the main road we climbed and climbed through the altiplano scenery. Donkeys, cows, sheep, pigs, dirt roads, cool dry air, and the occasional native working the field, driving livestock, or packing something on their back the size of a volkswagon.
Our first stop was the Salinas salt pans. Here a natural spring heavy laden with salt comes out the side of the mountain and is diverted into more than 3,000 pools clinging to the mountainside where it then dries and is harvested. The site has been using the same method since Inca times. We walked the pools, touched the water, and watched the workers busy with their tasks.

Next stop was Moray. This is a natural amphitheater-looking site that was used to cultivate different foods. The terraces drop far enough that they fall into different micro-climates, hence archeologists believe it was useful for a kind of primitive Inca agri-research site. It also is supposedly a kind of high altitude natural greenhouse because of the protected nature of the dip in the valley. Looks kind of like a mini version of Kennecott copper mine.
Third stop was Chinchero (pronounced exactly how it looks). This was probably the most authentic Andean looking place we've been. No tourists in this city. The locals were as surprised and interested in seeing us as we them. While turning one corner we saw a sage looking brown wrinkled man driving his donkeys in a circle on a pile of some kind of grain. With the windows open, kim yelled out "buenas dias" at which point the man looked up, removed a hand from the ropes, waved, and yelled back "buenas dias". The Chinchero archeological site was quite remarkable. The colonial church had paintings all on the walls and ceilings and was built on the foundation of an ancient Inca temple. Outside we saw a vast expanse of terraces and enormous rock walls. According to Inca legend this is where the "rainbow" was born.
Back in Cusco:
Check-in proved to be something of a challenge. We couldn't even drive to the hotel. The pre-celebrations of next week's festival of the sun had the roads closed. Thousands of people. Music, bands, processions, on-lookers, etc.Kim and my room is overlooking the main square and the music is still going strong as I write this.We went to a museum and saw Inca relics, and examples of how the Spaniards tried to teach and indoctrinate the natives. Paintings used to teach bible stories, then later paintings by locals with more of a local flare in style, content and color.We also went to a center for native arts and watched traditional dancing, clothing, and music. While I'm not normally interested in this, it was actually pretty neat.Dinner: you know eventually someone had to break down and go local. Gordon had "Cui" (coo-eee)-or- guinea pig, and Kim had Alpaca. Yes, we all tried it and it was definitely not bad. The biggest leap is getting past the sight of the little cooked guinea pig lying on the plate with short little legs stretched out as if he's trying to use them to run away from his final demise - the dinner plate. Cui is widely eaten here. The Alpaca was like mild tender steak. Very good. Also widely eaten here.We walked the streets and were treated to a vibrant night life, especially during this festival time.Much to my pleasure we saw the famous Inca Twelve sided stone. This rock lays in a wall of a church along an ally not far from the center of town. In keeping with Spanish modus operandi the church was built on an Inca site. This huge rock is a remarkable example of artistry with just as interesting of a story behind it (lore maybe?) of representing the twelve Inca kings...etc. We are all in good spirits. Sat in an internet cafe and had ice cream. We are all three sad to retire tonight prior to our final morning in the heart of ancient civilization. 3:20 flight from Cusco to Lima. Then midnight departure from Lima to L.A.
We desperately hope Kim's bag is in Lima waiting for us.As this may be the last update...Adiós from Peru

Day 2 at Huilloc

As we boarded the bus today on our way up the dirt road, we decided to take a different approach than yesterday. Once in Huilloc, I first met a boy who sweetly followed me around. I gave him a box of crayons and told him they were for him to take home. After a hug and a tickle he gave me an adorable smile!This second day Kim, Gordon and I took the suitcases and gathered with Carlos from Lima Tours and went from class to class. The Eagle Scout project of the young man in our ward, Brady Pope, was a complete success. After getting permission from the principal, Carlos took the chalkboard, bag, box of chalk, and eraser and showed the children exactly what it was and what it was intended for. Once he would say that the chalkboard was for them to take home and practice their math and writing, many of them cheered out loud from happiness. What a joy it was to be a part of passing out the bags and chalkboards, etc. Each child received the intended set of bag and board and eraser. We also saw them taking them home as intended. When we first started handing them out, we handed out maybe a dozen (outside of class). The sweetest, and most dainty little girl pulled out the board and chalk and wrote Juana. It was so sweet. I took a picture of it and then the other children started to write their names on the board and I took their pictures as well. Who knew they had a Bruce Lee and a Van Dam at their school. Goes to show that even children in Huilloc have a sense of humor. With the distribution complete and the Utah State group complete in their projects, the children all gathered around in the field in front of the school and sang the Peruvian national anthem. One little girl performed a poem, very sweet. We went to each class again, this time passing out candy. Crazy. Like any other kid in the world, candy is always a hit.

Two groups of boys performed songs. All in all it was a very touching experience. The Director of the school had previously asked for a donation to take the children on a field trip so we ponied up some cash and expressed our thanks for allowing us to participate in their school. We were also treated to potatoes that were just cooked and a very hot sauce. Tired from the day, we boarded the bus and on the way down we picked up 5 kids to take them down the road a few kilometers. These people live in a nice but harsh climate. Weather is beautiful. Sun is powerful. Air is thin.

Back to Yucay:
We were so happy to hook up with Erwin and his family. We joined them in a local bus (small van) to Urubamba to watch Megan in her dance class. We figured that since Kate was back in Utah going to dance at the same time, it might be a sweet irony. After dance we walked the streets of True Urubamba. No tourists. This is the place the tour companies keep you away from. All I can say is that it was a treat. Sights, smells, and sounds of true Peru. We stopped at the church building and met the branch president. What a beautiful church building.

Since Kim's bag is again a now show she broke down and purchased 5 shirts and 2 pairs of pants. 40 soles. About 14 dollars. Crazy. We hope that the bag will be in the Lima airport when we arrive there on Friday. Todays experience is what we are normally used to. Being able to see the true face of a country and people. The people here are humble and happy. We asked Irwin, Yolanda, Megan and Moroni to join us for dinner. It was fun to spend time with them. Ben made a paper airplane for Megan then Irwin showed us a cool transformer that he made from his paper placemat. Ben was impressed!
On the way back to Yucay from Urubamba we boarded a small van (a "Combi" they are called after the VW of the 70's) that seemed already full but Irwin assured us we could fit. After his family and the three of us got in there were 24 people in there. True Peru. The ride costs half a soles. That's less than 20 cents. Hasta everyone.

Day 1 at Huilloc

This morning the bus arrived with the Utah State group (a group of about 30 undergraduate business students and their faculty leaders) and we packed on our four suitcases and headed to Ollantaytambo and out a gravel road not frequented by tour buses. We saw a few hiking groups but the cows and native dressed women driving the small herds outnumbered the tourist hikers. After climbing to 12,000 feet we entered the little community of Huilloc.
Traditionally dressed children ran along side of our bus eager to greet us. They didn't dress up for us - this is how they dress every day. The children swarmed the first man off the bus because be offered some children his tic tacs. The boys quickly assisted with transporting our four bags filled with school and medical supplies to the designated room.We divided into groups to do four projects. Dad and I were in the agricultural group which consisted of clearing rocks from a field to prepare for planting an orchard. All was fine until it became a battle against nature as to whether or not we would be able to remove an enormous rock buried in the dirt. An hour later man prevailed and we rolled it to the side. The field was just adjacent to the trout farm tanks which were sadly still drained. Hopefully the next time around they get stocked they will learn to keep them viable.

One of the Utah State groups did testing of the children, taking their weight, height and pricking their fingers for anemia testing.
Three volunteer doctors came with our group and went through our supplies. Many of the supplies will be stored for a few months until a new medical building is completed later this summer. We reassured the doctor that we wanted the items to be used whether in Huilloc or at clinic in need in Cusco. The doctor from Cusco was very grateful and eager to plan how he could return to help when the village's new clinic is done and the rest is needed in Cuzco since the villagers didn't know what to do with many items. Once Kim explained that the vitamins were for the children and villagers to take each day, the principal started distributing the vitamins.
It turns out there are several teachers and Kim enjoyed offering the school supplies to the first grade teacher. She said via a translator that she was glad to take as much as we had. Kim was about to help her cut the laminated alphabet cards on the classroom wall when a doctor came to ask her to help sort out items in the supply room. It turned out that of the 800 lbs of items that we'd sent last month with another tour group plus other donations brought by other groups there were some that they didn't know what to do with. For example math flash cards and bubbles. It was fun to show the doctors what to do with flash cards and the technical expertise required to blow bubbles.
It was decided by the Utah State group after lunch break to leave early (1pm) which was very disappointing but we will go back tomorrow and hopefully get a little more time with the people. There were already a dozen kids walking around with their chalkboard backpacks donated by an Eagle Scout in our ward. It was nice to see them being used.

Bad news: Itinarary change. A Puno bus strike is currently under way. This means we miss our leg to Lake Titicaca. Disappointing. After communication with Pan American, the three of us deliberated our options. We will stay in Yucay (Sacred Valley) another night, then another day in Cusco.
Kim's bag a no show again but we're hopeful that with a second faxed letter and passports we'll prevail in getting the bag. She is still such a good sport. She broke down and bought a t-shirt this evening. Adiós

Machu Picchu

The sun is going down. We are sitting on the train waiting to leave from Aguas Calientes (aka Machu Picchu Pueblo) to go back to Ollayantaytambo and I'm writing while they sleep. We are all exhausted.
Our early morning began around 5am, with a light breakfast at our hotel Sonesta Posada del Inca Yucay. We were eager because last night I asked someone at the front desk if they were familiar with the church. They said yes, and that Irwin would be working breakfast. When we found him I could tell he was all smiles, evident he had been told we were looking forward to meet him. He is married and has two children - Moroni (almost 3) and Megan (8).(train is going now)We brought him a box of crayons, several church books in Spanish, and about 25 of my neck ties. He was more than happy to accept and distribute among the branch in Yucay. When we were about to leave, he asked us if we would come to his house this evening and meet his family. Of course! So we are on our way home to meet him at the hotel.
The voyage:
We left the Ollantaytambo train station on the Hyrum Bingham train at 7:50 on the dot. Started our decent down the valley along the river, then marveled at the scenery. It's like God himself carved this river valley. A 1 1/2 hour ride, you slowly leave the high altitude and see the climate change in the flora / fauna then before you know it you are in sub-tropical rain forest. Thick and lush as French Guiana. The sun shining and warm air. After arriving at Aguas Calientes we took the 25 min bus ride up the switch backs to the entrance of the park. Then you see it. Machu PicchuProbably the most beautiful man made thing set in front of the most beautiful natural scenery I've ever seen. Truly awe inspiring. Something spiritual. Something no imagineer at Disneyland would have ever dreamt of. Sacred. Our tour guide Percy took control of the group and led us through the beginning of the tour. I was leg shaking anxious to ask him advice about the possibility of Waynapicchu.(background here)...Waynapicchu is the enormous peak in the background of every picture you see of Machu Picchu. I had read that the park only issues 400 permits per day to climb it to the top, that it's a very strenuous climb, and the view is unprecedented. I told kim on a few occasions how I wanted to climb it.(back to Percy)...I said we wanted to climb, and he had the three of us leave the group and pointed the way and told us what to do. At the hike checkpoint there was a line with ticket holders, waiting their turn to hit he peak. Remember only 400 a day... But if there are "no shows" they take stand-by of which We were the first three. We waited 45+ mins. I was committed to leave and see the rest of he site, as it seemed a lot of people showed up. I asked Kim to leave twice (I'm impatient) she wouldn't let us. We got in. All three of us. Yes all three of us hit the summit.




No words or pictures can do justice to the vista.Gordon takes the honor of being the oldest person on June 15, 2009 to summit. Almost 68 years old. I tell you he was an inspiration to everybody who crossed our path. I give him the iron man award. This hike was straight up for 1 hour 20 mins, much less the depleted oxygen level. I am so impressed and proud of him. The rest of the afternoon people all over would recognize him and make some great comment after hearing he made it to he top.The site Machu Picchu is extraordinarily preserved - mostly to the credit that the Spaniards never knew it existed. Then in 1911, "locals" took Hyrum Bingham to it. He was looking for the lost Inca city. Bingham gets credit for the "discovery" of something abandoned, but not lost to the local Inca. It claimed a full issue of National Geographic in 1913. Now it's one of the new 7 wonders of the world.
We climbed all over the city. From the astronomical observatory to the look out point. I washed my face, neck, and arms in one of the sacred fountains. It's an architectural marvel. Stones that appear to be a dozen of tons each, carved stacked and smoothed. There is no definitive / unanimous purpose that historians agree is the purpose of Machu Picchu. Something certain is there is a spiritual feeling within the walls. Since we skipped out on the tour, we were able to climb. We also missed our tour included lunch at the Machu Picchu Sanctuary right there on the mountain. Nobody cared. We were all three tickled to miss lunch to take part of this special climb.(it's now 10:00, we just came back from Irwin's home)...On the walk back to the train, kim pulled out a big ziplock bag of candy we brought and would stop and give handfuls to the children spread through the streets and market. Cutest kids you've ever seen with the cutest reactions you've ever seen. In the taxi back from the train station we asked our driver Benturo if we could stop at a market in Urubamba. We were expecting that Erwin would be waiting for us and we really wanted to come to his home with a few bags of fresh produce. To thank our driver, we asked him to pick something out also. He bagged some apples and we also got him a big wedge of cheese.
As expected, Erwin was waiting there at Sonesta Posada and we all walked with him to his home a few blocks away. When we arrived, his wife Yolanda and children Megan and Moroni were waiting to start family home evening. We handed over the bags and a beautiful bouquet of flowers and she melted. We sang "because I have been given much" in Spanish, and Erwin gave a short lesson. We all bore testimony - they in Spanish, us in English. Erwin asked me to chose the closing song. We sang "I am a child of God". Three year old Moroni knew every word.
Megan has Barbie and Mickey Mouse posters and princess stickers. Moroni had puppy dog slippers. Winnie the Pooh stuffed animals. Modest home, well kept, and clean children. The presence of the gospel was certainly in their home. Moroni invited Kim twice to his birthday party this month. They showed us their photo album of their trip to the temple and Megan's baptism. We were all happy to feel the sweet spirit in their little home. What a special family.Although there are many single members of the church, they are the only LDS family in the Sacred Valley. How fortuitous that he happened to be working just outside our room (literally 20 feet away). They were happy to have us in their home and join them for their home evening. Both Erwin and Yolanda are artists and Yolanda sells their paintings to vendors in town who in turn sell them on the street to tourists. We bought two beautiful paintings from them. Impressed by the children' sweet spirit and Moroni's "future missionary" tag, Gordon made a very kind and generous donation to their already started missionary fund - literally in their piggy banks. They have to send Megan to Urubamba for school because the local school in Yucay is catholic and they won't take Megan because they are Mormon.
Though we don't speak the same language we could understand they were saying that --although we don't speak the same language, we are brothers and sisters in the gospel and share a common language of love of the gospel and brotherly love.What a special experiance to be invited to the modest home of a local member and see the commitment to the gospel.
Update on kim's bag: sorry. Nothing yet. LAN sent the bag to cusco then back to Lima. The front desk wrote an authorization in Spanish for yada yada yada the bag should fly back to cusco tomorrow. Kim is still a good sport.
Hasta